There is hardly a town in Europe left unscathed by two 20th Century wars; although there are bittersweet memories of a Nazi concentration camp nearby Quedlinburg in Germany‘s Saxony-Anhalt. The town owes its existence to the generosity of King Henry the Fowler. He gave money for an abbey in the year 922 where daughters of high nobility received their schooling. The remnants of the king’s magnificent castle still stand proudly on a high ridge, although it could not have stopped a modern army.
Quedlinburg Germany, Castle Hill
As the years passed by the abbey gradually muscled into castle space, and half-timbered mediaeval houses grew up around it. Fortunately for us, generals on both sides bypassed this unique piece of history, although the Nazi’s did plan to convert the magnificent cathedral into a shrine for the new society they hoped to create.
Paradise of Peaceful, Mediaeval Streets
We overnighted at the lovely Romantik Hotel but preferred to luncheon at a delightful restaurant, where we were cheek and jowl to ancient abbey walls. It was a pleasant day so we settled for open Bavarian-style smoked sandwiches with plenty of capers, successfully downed by a pair of authentic Bavarian Bockbiers.
A Placid Restaurant with Soul Food
Quedlinburg displays a strength of character appropriate to a world heritage site, and was one of the few German mediaeval / baroque towns that survived two horrendous wars that were supposed to end war, but did not. I have no idea how this little house forced the roads to go around it when they built the market square, but somehow it did. The owner must have had connections with a king or an abbess.
A Building with Strength of Character